Numerous boutique, little surf schools
have sprung up in the seaside town of Lahinch in recent years. “Here we are. It’s the surf school.” “Simon.” “Hey John.” “Welcome to Lahinch. You’re
very welcome .” “Thank you very much, thanks for having us along for a surf
lesson.” I’m excited to bring you out, you’re gonna love it. It’s warm out there.”
“In the wild Atlantic. Are you sure?” “Come on. I’ll get you a wetsuit.” “I really feel the cold so I might get another one.
I might need something even a bit more than this.” “Peter, keep giving Simon layers.” “Can you,
mate?” “Most customers wear one wetsuit but if Simon
needs three or four, let’s do it.” “We’re off.” “You can put the boards down here.” “Oh,
we’re very close to the water already. Ok now, Simon. I’ve heard that
you’ve surfed quite a number of times before, so I’ve heard that you picked up
this information from some of the best surfers, so you can show me what you’ve
learned.” “So basically, I remember something about… like… right you paddle out, like this. Then you see the wave and you do something… like that.” “That’s good.” John McCarthy is a former Irish surfing
champion who traveled the world for years in search of the perfect wave. But
in 2002 he returned to Ireland and, as is so often the case, realized that what had
been searching for was in his own backyard.
He found perfect waves, met the woman of his dreams, got married and had children.
my attempts in the surf were pretty pathetic, but it was fun. And you know
what, I was toasty warm as well. “It’s beautiful here, but it’s not exactly
Hawaii is it. How would you compare surfing here on the west coast
to other great surf spots around the world. “Well if you wait around
long enough here on the west coast of Ireland, you will get perfect wave, On the
best day here, it’s as good as anywhere in the world, maybe better.” A lot of
surfers do talk about it as being almost a mystical, glorious experience. Would you
go along with that.” “That is the mystery of surfing is that it can appear very spiritual but if you go out to a crowded beach in
Australia, surfers are boxing each other. It’s like: “This is my
wave.” So it’s actually super unspiritual But on a good day, to go out with
one friend and to see creation, yeah that’s a spiritual thing.
I’m a Christian, so for me, the creation points to the Creator. So
surfing for me, it is just like: there is a there’s an opportunity to see the awe